Why Do People Have Different Skin Types? The answer is a matter of biology, one’s surroundings and lifestyle. Genetics will set the tone for oil glands and the resilience of the skin barrier as well as moisture content; then you have hormones, the elements, sun exposure, medications and the products you put on it that can alter how skin conducts itself.
I am Benjamin Redfern. From my time travelling and the odd over-enthusiastic product purchase, not to mention years of talking shop about grooming, I have come to appreciate that skin does not like to be put in a box. One might have an oily forehead but dry cheeks with some sensitivity about the nose. Then there is the question of location: Hobart in winter or a dusty Pilbara excursion and the Top End wet season will all elicit a different response from the skin. It is like the weather in that respect, always a little unpredictable.
What Is Meant by Skin Type?
Being aware of yours means you can pick a good cleanser or moisturiser and not feel the need to stock up on half the bathroom cabinet. It is also the way to tell if you are dealing with a passing irritation or dehydrated skin versus something more enduring.
To put it simply, a skin type is how you normally hold and make oil and water. You will find the usual run of categories: normal, combination, oily, dry and sensitive (though the latter is more of a reactivity pattern than a biological type in its own right).
Type as Opposed to a Temporary State
Part of your baseline is the sebum your oil glands put out, an oily substance which is meant to limit water loss and see to the surface of the skin. Too much of it and you are looking at shine, blocked pores and acne.
Dehydration is not the same thing as being dry. Dryness is an absence of oil. Yet even those with oily skin can end up with tight, flaky skin that is uncomfortable after a spell of cold or some harsh skincare and over-cleansing.
So What Makes the Difference?
You cannot point to one thing. Biology is where you start and from there age, health, habits and the environment will have their say.
Take two siblings: they may share a predisposition but because of the products they use or how they react to stress and medication their experience will be quite distinct. Identical twins are no exception, for behaviour and exposure will see differences emerge in the skin over the course of time.
A number of forces are at play
| Influence | What It Can Affect | Practical Example |
|---|---|---|
| Genetics | This covers everything from pigmentation to ageing and oil production | You can see it in family lines with eczema or acne |
| Hormones | Sebum production, breakouts and inflammation | Puberty, pregnancy or menstruation can bring about changes |
| Ageing | Oil levels, irritation and repair | With age the skin may become drier or prone to irritation |
| Climate | Water loss, shine and irritation | Cold air for tightness and humidity for shine |
| Skincare | Barrier comfort and reactivity | Exfoliate too much and you will have stinging and peeling |
Then there is the Fitzpatrick scale, a system of six phototypes based on the propensity to burn or tan under ultraviolet radiation. While it has its place when it comes to UV exposure and sun sensitivity, it is no substitute for knowing if your skin is combination or otherwise.
The Genetic Link
There is a close relationship between the two. Inherited traits will have a hand in how active your oil glands are, your pigmentation and the level of reaction to certain products.
But do not think genetics are responsible for every blemish or patch of dry skin. They establish a tendency. Your routine and environment can then turn it up or down, as it were.
Family Tendencies
It is not uncommon for rosacea, psoriasis, eczema and acne to run in families, as with lower oil production or redness following inflammation.
A history of severe acne or rashes among relatives is worth noting, though it is not a diagnosis in itself. Make sure a healthcare professional is made aware of it.
The Effect of Age and Hormones
When there is a significant hormonal shift it can change the way the skin retains moisture and controls oil gland activity. That is why a person with calm skin for years can suddenly become sensitive or break out.
And as one gets older the balance is altered; sebum production tends to wane and the barrier is not so quick to put right any irritation. One would be hard pressed to say that fine lines, dryness or a propensity for sensitivity are evidence of having made the wrong choice in soap back in 1998, but then again, a harsh soap is no remedy.
Health And Medicines
There is more to it than soap. Stress, lack of sleep and illness can all have an impact on how your skin looks and feels. Some medicines are known to bring on acne-like symptoms, make one more sensitive to the sun or simply drier out. But do not put down a prescribed medication over a change in your skin; put the question to the prescriber or a pharmacist.
Hormonal shifts such as menopause or pregnancy will alter oiliness, pigmentation and sensitivity. The timing is something to consider. If there is an abrupt change, it should be noted and not put down to “my skin being difficult”.
How Climate Changes Skin Behaviour
The climate in Australia is unforgiving: the inland air is dry, you have coastal winds, heat, sudden humidity and intense UV radiation. It is enough to alter the way skin behaves, if not its biological make-up.
When it is humid, sweat and sebum tend to stay put and oily skin has a sheen. In cold and windy conditions water is lost and sensitive skin becomes taut. Long days in the office or in the air, the air conditioning is a quiet offender.
Sun, Wind And Water
Then there is the matter of the sun which can lead to redness, inflammation, premature ageing and pigmentation. UV damage is a cumulative thing so protection is called for on a regular workday as much as a beach holiday. The Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency has official guidance on the subject.
Logistics are important for a day outdoors. Put on a broad-spectrum sunscreen and a hat before you go out from home, find some shade when the UV is at its peak and reapply after you have been in the water or towelled off. Should you be making your way up the Stuart Highway or the Gibb River Road or along the coast, have a charged phone and plan your return with water and shade in mind. It is better to be able to deal with any irritation than be left by a hot car park with a single bottle of water melting in the heat.
Can Skin Type Change?
It can, whether for a time or in the long run. Puberty might see an upturn in oil production, ageing a decline. The same regimen that was fine in Tasmania may seem too much in the Top End’s humidity, or not enough for a winter in the Red Centre.
Dehydration, a new product or even sunburn and stress can be responsible for temporary changes. Should your skin become blistered, very itchy or inflamed, consider it a condition and not an opportunity to relabel yourself.
Expectation Versus Reality
You might expect a product to put your skin in balance for good. In reality it will require different care come the seasons; what was suitable in January’s humidity will be drying in July.
You could think tightness means the cleanser is doing its job, when in fact the barrier has been stripped. Clean skin ought to be comfortable, not as flat as a pancake after a night in a budget hotel.
How To Identify Your Skin
Observation is key, not a twelve-step shopping expedition. See how your skin fares under normal conditions when it is clean and without product.
Use a mild cleanser, pat it dry and give your face a rest for half an hour. Inspect the forehead, nose, cheeks and jaw on their own merits and note any shine or flaking, do not be swayed by a dramatic morning.
A Simple Home Check
- With oily skin you will see pores that look enlarged and a fair bit of shine.
- Dry skin is apt to be rough and flaky, especially post-wash.
- Combination types are oilier about the nose and forehead and drier on the cheek.
- Normal skin is for the most part balanced and comfortable, though nothing is perfect day in day out.
- Sensitive skin will redden, sting or burn with little provocation from the weather or friction.
Do this check on more than one occasion. A strong exfoliant or exertion can be deceptive. A shiny face might be from a rich moisturiser or sweat, not necessarily oily skin.
Build A Kinder Routine
Your routine should be practical and support the skin barrier. Make a start with a gentle cleanser and the right moisturiser and some daily sun protection, and introduce actives slowly.
It is a common misconception that the more your skin stings, the better the outcome. In fact one should take burning, cracking or unrelenting peeling as a cue to put things on hold. New products are best brought in slowly and patch-tested; do not try to scrub any irritation into submission.
One-Day Troubleshooting
To put your routine right in a day, forgo anything new or aggravating, be gentle with your cleanser, moisturise and shield from the sun. Put comfort and the support of your barrier ahead of any attempt to deal with fine lines, pores or acne marks.
Oily skin types should not subject themselves to an aggressive wash which will only add to the discomfort and dryness. With dry skin a more substantial moisturiser is in order and keep the water in the shower warm, not scalding. Those with combination skin would do well to vary the amount of moisturiser they put on different parts of the face instead of trying to fit it into a single mould.
When to call in a professional
There is value in seeing a dermatologist or GP if you are dealing with something that is painful, spreading, persistent or taking a toll on your confidence. They can put you straight when you are at a loss to tell ordinary sensitivity apart from eczema, rosacea, an infection or contact dermatitis.
Do not hesitate to get medical attention for a mole that is changing fast, a non-healing sore, severe swelling or any sign of infection. Be aware there is a consultation fee for a regular visit and specialist costs are dependent on the provider, your Medicare status and how you are referred. It is better to enquire as to fees at the time of booking than to be presented with them and a clipboard.
Who requires extra care?
Tailored advice from a doctor is warranted for those with allergies of note, medication sensitivity, a record of rashes or acne, or past skin cancer. And to the beginner: resist the urge to follow some elaborate social media regimen put forward by someone with a superior lighting budget and entirely different skin and climate to your own.
Frequently Asked Questions
We have put together the answers to the questions that tend to trip people up. They are short and to the point but if symptoms are of concern, have them professionally appraised.
What makes a person’s skin type what it is?
A matter of genetics, hormones, age, health, the climate, oil gland activity and one’s habits with skincare. Consider it a pattern rather than a medical designation.
Is it set in stone?
No. Oiliness and sensitivity can be put out of kilter by puberty, pregnancy, menopause, ageing, a change of routine or the weather. A case of dehydration or irritation will make it seem like a new type.
Then it is genetic?
In part. While sebum production and pigmentation are down to your genes, what you see is also a product of your behaviour and environment.
How do you classify them?
Normal, oily, dry and combination are the usual categories. Sensitive is a description of reactivity and is not mutually exclusive with any of them.
How to tell?
Leave the skin clean and without product for half an hour and have a look. Do this over a few days since exercise, heat or sunscreen will alter what you see.
Dry or dehydrated?
The former has little oil, the latter is without water and can be an issue for any skin type. Just because you feel tight after washing does not make it dry.
Does the weather have an effect?
It will impact on your skin’s comfort and behaviour. You may find more shine in the heat and humidity or more tightness and water loss from cold and wind. That is not to say your type has been permanently altered.
Why is there oil in certain spots?
Combination skin is wont to have more active glands on the chin, nose and forehead while the cheeks are drier. A balanced routine is preferable to putting the whole face through the wringer.
Be flexible and calm about it
Genes, surroundings and hormones mean no two people are alike. Look for patterns, respect the UV in Australia and see to the skin barrier. Adjust as you need to.
Healthy skin is not about perfection. Make your changes in small increments and put in a call to the doctor if you must. More effective in the long run than waging war on your face before you have had your coffee.